Model of My Bike a Honda Nighthawk 45

 

Picture of a model like my  Other Bike the V80 version

My bike is a Yamaha 90 with a four stroke engine unlike the ones that was brought in by our local dealer, which is a 2 stroke engine.

This is a example of how persistence can pay off. I was told that a certain part that i can't get locally( the shaft that have the cog' attached)  could not be remade  perfectly so it don't whobble i was determined to get the bike up and running and i went and got measurements and specs of another one that i bought a Rim off and got  the shaft made over by a very talented brother and  i have to big him up here on my site his name is JIMMY i recommend him for any thing metal u need a machine shop to deal with  or to rebuild. You can find him at Rodney Road off Waltham Park Road (near spanish Town Road) and also off  maxfield avenue from the other end. Big up.

After riding a while the cog flew off i went back to jimmy and he welded it up so strong

after a while the gear box went i was riding and all the gears turned neutral  ha ha

u know what that means i was reving and changing gears and the bike wasn't moving

well i had to get a Honda C90 engine cuase i couldn't get no gear box

so now i have converted my Yahama T90 with a Honda engine replacing the  carburettor,

 pet cock, and ignition coil. the wire on the black box also have more wires than the engine

so converting had to be done. It is now reving wonderfully with one technical issue

to deal with a air cleaner to be built, there is no space for any conventional aircleaner

so one is being developed (tried one already but it had to go back to drawing board as it wasn't getting

enough air as the specifications for airflow is different on the frame.

a loncin mag rim replacing the spokes rim and yahama V80 rail and indicator lamps.

I now have a great bike that to the astonishment of a lot of bikers made a long range

trip from kingston to St. Elizabeth over 150 km to and 150 km back earning it the respect and honour

of the bike community along with the famous stunt riders fearless riders who ask me to join their crew.

 

 

 

 

Maintenance Guide

"Inspirating You to fix it your self"

HOW AN ENGINE WORKS "THE BASICS"

To start any engine, Two or Four stroke, you must have Three things.

One- A burnable mixture of gasoline,

Two- It must be compressed, that is under compression by the piston.

Three- there must be a way to ignite the compressed mixture at the right time.

If all three things are present, the engine MUST run. It may not run long and it may not run good, but it will run. Always remember that ! The reason I say that is because engines can do funny things. Somtimes things that shouldn't work...work. Other times, things that should work...don't. We need to remember that there is a reason why it works and why it doesn't work. If you did it all right then it MUST work ! If it doesn't work...you did something wrong. When things don't work, remember these three things and go back and double check your work. In an engine these things occur as part of a cycle. That cycle is basicly this -SUCK, SQUEEZE, BURN, and BLOW. The fuel mixture must be brought into the cylender -SUCK, compressed -SQUEEZE, ignited -BURN, and then expelled from the cylender -BLOW. All reciprocating engines must go through these steps no matter what the design of the engine ( two-stroke, four-stroke, whatever ).

In a Four-Stroke engine the intake valve opens and the piston goes down, sucking the fuel mixture into the cylinder. The intake valve then closes as the piston comes back up squeezing the mixture. Spark now occurs and the burning gases expand, pushing the piston down with lots of power. As the piston comes up again, the exaust valve opens and the burnt gases are blown out of the engine and the process starts over again. This is all done in four strokes of the piston. Piston down... Piston up... Piston down... Piston up. Four-Strokes.

In a Two-Stroke engine the piston goes down, compressing the fuel mixture under the piston and blowing it into the cylinder. As this mixture blows in it also blows the burnt exaust gases out. The fuel mixture is blown into the cylinder through passages ( Ports ) in the cylinder walls. The piston comes up, covering the ports in the cylinder walls and compressing or squeezing the mixture. This also creates a vacuum in the crankcase under the piston, sucking the fuel mixture into the crankcase. The spark then ignites the mixture and the burning gases push the piston down, starting everything again. This is all done in two strokes of the piston. Piston down... Piston up.Two-Strokes.

General Procedure

Electrical

*Check head light high/low beam, tail/brake light, turn signals, instrument and driving lights.

*Test Kill button/switch and inspect overall wiring for chafe. Use wire ties to secure loose wires. A shot of WD-40 will keep switches & locks healthy.

*Check battery levels and clean terminals. Baking soda & water will clean corrosion from the post (Don't get it inside the battery!), a little petrolatum or grease helps prevent future corrosion.

*Inspect starter connections & mounting bolts. Check shaft for excessive wear if noisy. *If your bike has a fuse box, check 'em and get spares or Test Breakers. Fire is bad.

Engine Fluids

*Check levels. If engine/trans. oil is very dark or black, smells burnt, change oil & filter.

*Inspect fuel filter & screens for crud and check lines for chafe and dry rot.

*Water cooled Engines: Check coolant/anti-freeze level, and check flow/pump/hoses.

Brakes

*Check and adjust lever & pedal travel. Refer to your owners/shop manual for specs.

*Check master cylinders for clean brake fluid & proper fluid levels.

*Irregular or "jerky" stopping may mean a warped rotor or drum.

*Inspect pads/liners and replace if needed. Don't let a front brake grab on wet pavement.

*Brakes are possibly the most important component on a bike. Don't bet your life on worn brakes!

Tires & Wheels

*Inspect tires for even wear, tread depth and dry rot (cracking) or cuts in side walls.

*Inspect valve stems for dry rot (and rim cuts on tube stems).

*Check air pressure. Do not over inflate especially in Hot conditions/climate.

*Inspect rims for dents, cracks (alloy) and Carefully tighten loose spokes.

*Check axles, axle nuts & hardware for tightness & wear and lube the bearings.

*Inspect drive chain(& lube) or belt for excessive wear and adjust/replace as needed.

Engine & Transmission

*Check spark plugs. Brown to grayish-tan is good. Black is probably from burning oil or a rich fuel/air mix., light gray or whitish can mean a lean fuel/air mix or an intake leak.

*Check carb(s), adjust float level(s) & idle/fuel/air. Clean carbs are happy carbs... Aerosol Carb/Injector cleaner can work wonders on carburetor or fuel injected motors.

*Inspect/adjust ignition components & replace old spark plugs & wires.

*About every 500 miles, check nuts, bolts & screws for tightness.

*Inspect oil lines for leaks, cracks or chafe & look for oil leaks from the engine/trans. case(s).

*Inspect air filter(s) and if dirty, replace or clean depending on type.

*Inspect exhaust for leaks (especially at the manifold) and check mounting brackets. *Adjust clutch, replace plates if slipping or dragging. Check primary drive chain/belt.

Frame & Suspension

*Check/tighten/torque all nuts & bolts, & engine/trans. mounting hardware.

*Look for hair line cracks around engine/transmission mounting brackets.

*Check steering head/fork assembly for looseness/tightness and adjust if needed.

*Lube steering(tree) bearings.

*Check fork fluid level (refer to owners manual, use only approved hydraulic fluid).

*Inspect rear shock(s), (replace if worn or soft) and check fender mounting brackets/hardware.

*Inspect handle bars for cracks, check mounts and oil all cables.

Model of my very First Bike a  Honda Tacty  (  I still have it)

Learn How to Fix bike Yourself  for free here (DANS REPAIR COURSE).